Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Joe's Valley

Joe's Valley Utah is one of my favorite climbing areas I've been to. The sandstone is wildly aesthetic, with beautiful colors and shapes. The climbing is right off the road, and the movement is gymnastic and physical (a style which suits me very well). Even though our most resent trip to Joe's was somewhat disappointing because of bad weather and a lack of time, I left several problems I will be able to finish very quickly upon my return. Huge thanks to my sponsors and to Red Bull for they're support and making my continued pursuit of climbing possible!

Because of the rain and subsequent humidity, I spent a good deal of the trip taking photos, so check them out and enjoy!


Matt crushing his first V6, "Pitbull"

Zach Vose on "I'd Rather be Climbing Her"

Me climbing the Joe's Valley mega-classic and quite possibly best V6 ever "Wills of Fire"

Sunday, September 14, 2014

Araphoe Pass

The past month I have been venturing into the unknown to an entirely new area called Arapahoe Pass.

Lee Payne, Nate, Wes Walker and I have been busy developing a few zones in this area. The area which we have dubbed "Yonder" hosts about 15 high quality boulder problems ranging from V0- V9.
Scoping new lines on the Wave

About to enter the Enchanted Forest

Nate crushing "Faceless" V6
Wes Walker photo!

The setting of Yonder is pretty incredible and the approach is unlike any alpine approaches I have done in Colorado. After hiking through the Enchanted Forest, you are deposited below a fair sized talus field where tree line essentially ends. After this there is only boulders and snow. Here is are a couple of short videos highlighting some of the boulders in the area, one from my friend and super talented photographer/videographer Wes Walker, and one from me. Enjoy!!!

Justin Jaeger - Wowza, flashing Pilot Wave, & first ascent of Rogue Wave ----- Arapaho Pass, CO from Wes Walker on Vimeo.

Arapahoe Pass from Stephen Palermo on Vimeo.

Thursday, August 14, 2014


After completing my summer class, I began to get outside as much as possible. Before the season began I had made a conscious decision to forgo long term projecting for the season and focus instead on checking out new areas and building a solid base of climbs. Although I love projecting, hiking to the same boulder day after day and failing wears on your confidence as well as your overall fitness. Since there are so many boulders I haven't tried, and areas I haven't yet been to I am psyched to continue climbing on new stuff and not getting attached to one line.

A few weeks back I made it up to Lincoln Lake for the first time this season for a quick morning session and managed to put down a cool climb called the Lonely Carpenter (V9). The video is below.

The Lonely Carpenter from Stephen Palermo on Vimeo.

Matt on the trek to Upper Upper Chaos Canyon

Early last month we ventured up to Rocky Mountain National Park to climb in Upper Upper Chaos Canyon. Although it is quite a trek, this zone boasts some very cool problems as well as plenty more potential. Our friend Tom has been putting up quite a few problems in Upper Upper and he took us up to two of his new problems Solaris, and L'Eclipse. Both of these are very cool, with L'Eclipse being tall and proud. I was able to put down Solaris, but had to leave L'Eclipse for next time.

Because it was my first time in this zone I zipped around as much as I could not trying anything too hard. Over the course of day I was able to put down Full Chaos (a boulder I had wanted to climb for a while), Contents Under Pressure as well as a medley of more moderate problems. I also came painfully close to completing Wet Rabbit falling at the last move... next time.
Phillip London crushing Easy on the Eyes

The next week, John and I hiked up to Area B of Mt. Evans to search out and clean new boulders. Unfortunately the weather was against us and it rained for the first part of the day.   However despite this we hiked around a huge part of the talus field and found many potential projects, cleaning and sending a few of them. I climbed a nice moderate which I dubbed "Cruise Control," and John was able to climb a cool crimpy line that goes at around V7 (not sure what he ended up calling that). I toured the area and found many more problems both established and new which I'm psyched to get back to.

John Gass on the prowl for new blocs in Area B
A new V6/7 that John put up at Area B

Next on my agenda was a weekend climbing and camping in Guanella Pass. Gaunella is somewhere I have spent a fair amount of time over the last year because of its easy  lack of an approach, and wide range of problems. I climbed on my new project Double Dutchez (V12) in the morning, but conditions were bad and I retreated to the main zone to train on easier climbs. After this I revisited a line I had cleaned on a previous trip and dubbed the Darkness project. After trying it for an few minutes I realized that doing the line from the start would be much harder than I had thought. I must return for this one as well.

Enjoy the rest of these photos, and be sure to "like" my Facebook athlete page and follow me on Instagram as I update both of these social media platforms VERY regularly!! (The links to these are on the right sidebar of this blog!)
The top  and bottom of the Darkness proj.

Camping in Guanella Pass


An early morning at Lincoln Lake